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Phuket Getting Around
Thais are taught from childhood to
maintain jai yen (cool heart), public
displays of anger are rather rare and
generally do not achieve the desired
effect. As you attempt to travel around
the island, or anywhere in Thailand, you
will undoubtedly be given ample
opportunities to develop this skill for
yourself. Thailand may be known as the
"land of smiles", but trying to cross
the street anywhere in the kingdom even
at a marked crosswalk is literally
taking your life in your hands. Thais
may pride themselves on their polite
behavior but while observing them
attempt to operate motor vehicles,
polite is unlikely to be the first
adjective that comes to mind. On display
daily are an array of driving skills, or
lack thereof, that would logically
conclude with the driver being admitted
to an asylum, or being cremated. In a
quirk of nature it seems those who
operate a motor vehicle like an idiot,
or while drunk, or ‘hopped up’ on
amphetamines usually kill or injure the
innocent. None of the above types of
drivers are an endangered species on the
island and to observe them in there
natural habitat just walk outside on any
street, you will not have to wait long.
Fleeing the scene of an accident when at
fault has become almost expected
behavior throughout the kingdom. While
driving (or walking) the unwritten rule
of the road is the bigger and or more
expensive vehicle always has the
right-of-way, and can drive on whatever
side of the road that pleases them. My
intention is not to scare you, but to
remind you that traveling in a foreign
country can be as perilous as it is
pleasurable.
Motorbikes
The warm balmy climate, the natural
beauty of the island, and the winding
mountain roads, all make Phuket a
natural for cruising around on a
motorbike. Motorbikes are the most
common mode of transportation on the
island. Motorbikes are also the most
common cause of serious injury and death
on the island. No statistics are
available as to the number of motorbike
injuries sustained by visitors to Phuket
but the number is substantial. Insurance
is not available on any rental
motorbike. If it is damaged or stolen
you will have to pay it’s for
replacement plus any property damage or
injuries caused to others. Phuket has
and at times enforces a motorbike helmet
law. The helmets available here are more
for decoration then a serious safety
device, but the fine for a driver
without one is 500 baht. In Patong on
the corner of Soi Bangla and Rat-u-Thit
Road starting around 6pm and continuing
to about 8pm the local police collect a
little ’tea-money’ from motorbike riders
without helmets. This money trap is so
well known that motorbike taxis line up
early to ferry you down and back to the
police station to pay your fine. One
cheap source of entertainment is to
stand on the corner and marvel at the
astonishing number of local Thais who
although know about this blatant
"rip-off" masquerading as traffic
enforcement; but get caught without a
helmet anyway. The daily rental rate for
the small motorbikes like the ‘Honda
Dream’ is 100-150 baht. The larger bikes
rent for 300-500 baht, but in both cases
the locals will be quite happy to charge
the uninformed more.
Motorcycle drivers dressed in a green or
maroon vests are providing a short trip
taxi service. They are at times the
fastest and cheapest way to get around.
Simply wave one to a stop and ask for
the fare to your destination.
Bus
There is a daytime bus service
(songthaew) to most parts of the island.
Songthaew (means two rows) which refers
to the two wooden benches that run down
each side of this colorful wooden-body
public transport vehicle. All buses run
on a loop route between a beach location
like Patong and back to the songthaew
stop on Ranong Road in Phuket Town. The
bus fare between Patong and Phuket Town
is 15 Baht, and the travel time is about
thirty minutes. It is unfortunate they
do not circle the island on the new ring
road or travel from beach to beach, for
example to travel from Patong seven
kilometers south to Karon beach you must
first take the songthaew 15 kilometers
to Phuket Town transfer to another
songthaew and ride approximately 20
kilometers to Karon Beach. Any effort to
improve the bus service and or extend
the hours of operation is violently
opposed by the tuk-tuk (taxi) drivers
who insist the competition will cut into
there business. Compared with tuk-tuks a
songthaew is generally a safer ride,
with fewer hassles, from a driver who is
more likely to be sane and sober, and at
a fraction of the price of a tuk-tuk.
Stiff competition indeed. One option is
renting a songthaew with a driver by the
day for touring the island or going on a
beach Safari, the rate is quite
reasonable when split among even a small
group.
To arrange for the rental of a Songthaew
tear out the following page, fill in the
information, and ask someone at the
front desk of your hotel to telephone
the songthaew company (They do not speak
English very well so you will need the
assistance of someone who speaks Thai).
Taxi
and Tuk-Tuks
(tuk-tuks) the notorious three-wheeled
smoke-belching variety are now extinct
on Phuket. They have been replaced with
small red vans with open sides. The
drivers have for the most part been
allowed to nuture their nefarious
reputations and continue to represent
the largest source of complaints by
visitors to the Tourist Police. The
drivers fiercely fight any attempt to
make them use meters. Generally tuk-tuk
drivers (Mafia) show there displeasure
at ant attempt to control them by
blocking one or more major highways on
the island. The authorities immediately
buckle in the face of this pressure and
rescind to offending requirement,
leaving both residents and visitors to
the island with a woefully inadequate,
unruly, unsafe, and overpriced
transportation service. Many tuk-tuk
drivers like to double as travel agents
- Don’t Do It!. They will normally only
take you to a place that will pay them
an additional commission over and above
what they overcharge you for the ride in
the first place. Contrary to
conventional wisdom, taxis (tuk-tuks)
are not a good source of information
unless you enjoy being taken for a ride.
The
standard rate for a ride from one point
in Patong to another is 20 Baht, from
Patong to Phuket is 150 Baht, from
Patong to Karen Beach is 100 Baht, and
from Patong to the airport (a forty five
minute ride) is 450 Baht. A rainy day, a
late night trip, a navy ship in port, or
just about any other reason is an excuse
to charge more but if you know the
basics you should be able to negotiate a
reasonable rate. The rate paid is by the
distance traveled not by the number of
passengers. If the driver wants to
charge by the person wave him on and
catch another.
Tuk Tuks are plentiful in Patong and
Phuket Town but travel to many areas in
the north or south part of the island
may require you to negotiate a round
trip rate because finding a tuk- tuk for
the return trip may be difficult. It is
generally not difficult to negotiate a
rate with a tuk-tuk driver that has him
sleeping in the parking lot while you
walk around the national park, dine at a
seafood restaurant, or watch the sunset
at Cape Promthep. Start at 100 to120
Baht per hour depending on the distance
to be traveled and be prepared to pay
150 Baht per hour.
In Patong at least half of the tuk-tuk
drivers are polite, honest, and
hardworking. Tuk-tuks that are driving
around looking for customers are
generally a better bet than the ones
(perched like a vulture) waiting for you
outside hotels and restaurants. The
polite way to stop a songthaew or
tuk-tuk on the street is to hold your
arm out in front of you, palm down and
make a up and down motion.
Long Tail Boat
The ubiquitous longtail boat is
found wherever there is water in
southern Thailand. The current version
with the motor mounted on the back is
just the latest modification on this
ancient but quite seaworthy craft. Often
called the workhorse of the Andaman Sea,
longtails are used in to provide a
number of marine services. While not as
flashy or fast as modern speedboats, a
voyage in a longtail boat is an
interesting experience and a great way
to take short sightseeing trips. The one
serious disadvantage of the longtail is
the almost complete lack of safety
equipment such as lifejackets. Longtails
are not advisable while traveling with
small children or non-swimmers. Rental
prices average 400 baht per hour for a
short trips and up to 1000 baht for an
entire day. |